Solo Road Trip Around the Coast of Ireland - Causeway Coast & Wild Atlantic Way

A van trip to explore the best of Ireland has always been on my to do list, so after a family bereavement I thought f*ck it, and I hopped on the ferry to see just what the Emerald Isle had in store. I took the ferry from Cairnryan to Belfast, the return ferry ticket for one passenger and a campervan cost approximately £300 and the journey lasted just over 2 hours. Alternatively you can take the Ferry to Larne which is around 30 minutes north of Belfast.

This blog covers my experiences on this trip. My goal was to explore the most picturesque and stunning locations while bypassing the cities, as I had visited them previously. However, you can customize your itinerary according to your preferences. I combined parts of the Causeway coastal route with the Wild Atlantic Way over the space of a week in November. The Causeway Coastal Route spans 115 miles along the coastline of Northern Ireland with a number of interesting stops along the way - you could easily do this over a few days taking in many of the different sights and activities. On the other hand, the Wild Atlantic Way is an extensive route over 1500 miles with many of the main stopping points being really far away from each other (sometimes requiring a two hour drive). I made it down as far as Clifden in County Galway before making the lengthy return journey back to get the ferry. The dark winter nights meant I had limited daylight hours to see and do things which I tried to make the most of instead of driving all day. Consequently, I felt that the Wild Atlantic Way was a bit too much driving for me at this time but I will definitely be back to pick up where I left off maybe next summer when the days are longer.

It is also worth mentioning that I found places to sleep for the night in the campervan by using Park for night. This gives you a selection of paid campsites and free park up spots but if you use one of these then don't be a meathead - be respectful, leave no trace and take your rubbish with you!!!

My chosen stopping points:

The Causeway Coast & Northern Ireland

Carrickfergus Castle - This medieval castle was my first stop on the route after getting off the Ferry. I didn't go in but I walked around the area to stretch my legs and admired the view from outside. The entry fee is £6 to explore the castle from inside.

Blackhead Lighthouse - Built in 1902 you can take a short hike up to this historical landmark. The hike is just under 3 miles (4km), around an hour and it takes you on a scenic walk along the coast, past some caves and up 100 steps to reach the lighthouse. From here you have stunning views across the Irish sea.

The Gobbins Cliff Trail - a fun day out along the cliffs of the coast. The Gobbins path was originally opened in 1902 and then restored in 2015, you can still see traces of the original cliff path and hear all about how it was constructed. The trail takes you through a series of tunnels, bridges, and pathways that have been carefully carved into the rock, providing an exciting experience for anyone. The tubular bridge and the cave that you go through were probably my highlights of the trail. In the summer the cliffs are full of birds including puffins, I could still spot their nests although the birds are no longer around. We were lucky enough to spot a friendly seal popping his head up from the water. The cost of the excursion was £21 for adults, helmets are provided as a necessity in case of banging your head or falling rocks and you must wear hiking boots and if you don't have any with you then don't worry - you can rent them for a fiver (£5). The route can be quite slippy and there's a steep hill to climb on the way back to the van.

The Black Arch - This one isn't so much of a stop but instead the beginning of a scenic drive along the Antrim coast. A lot of people choose to pull in at a layby to stop to take photos of the iconic arch (just don't stand on the road).

Torr Head Drive & View Point - a scenic detour and completely worth it. If you make the short steep incline to the viewing point you will have incredible views. This is the closest point to Scotland in Northern Ireland and they even say you can see over to Mull of Kintyre on a clear and bright day (disclaimer - it was neither clear or sunny when I went but the views were incredible nonetheless.) There are ruins here of an old lookout station, you can use the old rusty ladder to climb up to the rooftop for better views although the inside of the building is pretty wrecked and has graffiti and couple of beer bottles (think Banksy gone rogue.) The road to get there is long and windy, and make sure you are ok with steep inclines and heights. I came face to face with a bin lorry taking up all the road & had to squeeze past in a campervan which was a struggle.

Kinbane Castle - my favourite stop on the route so far, this is one you should definitely make time to visit. When you start walking down the steps and the view of the castle comes into view, I was completely blown away by it's beauty. The ruins are perched on a cliff edge overlooking the Atlantic ocean and the views are breath-taking. You can explore the ruins and even hike up to the furthest point of the cliff edge (just be careful in poor weather as it is pretty narrow.) There are 140 steep steps down (and a bit of stinker on the lungs on the way back up) but it is completely worth it.

Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge - another favourite of mine, this made me grin from ear to ear from the exhilaration and the sheer beauty of the views around me. If you want to cross the bridge it will cost you £15.50 for an adult ticket, which is a bit costly but I really do think it is worth it. You will then embark on a short walk along a coastal path with views to die for for around 20 minutes before reaching the bridge. You may need to queue for a short while as only a limited amount of people are allowed on the bridge at any one time. The crossing is 30 metres above the rocks and crashing waves below and 20 metres in length to get to the other side and to the island that was once a hotspot for salmon fishing. I won't lie I could absolutely not look down on the way over and you can feel the bridge moving but on the way back I put my brave pants on and looked over the side and I am so glad I did.

Isn't is crazy to think that back in the day the fishermen would cross an early version of this bridge with only one rope for a single handrail and carrying all of their equipment and let me tell you this bridge swings in the wind!! So I can only imagine what it was like back then.

The Giants Causeway - aargh I hate saying this but truthfully I was really underwhelmed on my visit. Maybe I don't know what I was expecting but in my head I had kind of thought it would be huge towering basalt columns, something a bit like Fingal's Cave on Staffa but it's really tiny. Don't get me wrong the formations of the stacked rocks are cool and I loved watching the waves crashing against the rocks but I just thought it would be more. My highlights were definitely walking up to the giants organ, the amphitheatre viewpoint and if you can hike the steep path up to the cliff top the views are incredible. Please don't let me opinion stop you from going to see for yourself.

I didn't actually pay for the causeway as it isn't required to access it, it only costs £10 to park in the lower car park near the railway and is only a short walk up from there. I didn't use the café on site or the visitor centre so I can't comment on these but you have the option to access these for an additional charge.

Dunluce Castle - a quick pitstop here as the sun was setting to admire the castle ruins on the clifftop. The castle was closed for the day when I was passing however during opening hours it is £6 entry to the ruins and I absolutely would have done this if I had got there earlier.

Portstewart Strand - a beautiful long beach with lots of swimmers and dog walkers. I stayed near here so visited for my morning walk and ended up chatting to a lovely bunch of swimmers and having an impromptu jump in the sea with them which was thrilling as the waves are pretty big and it was rather cold. On a nice summers day I imagine this beach would be incredibly busy and I could see why as it is gorgeous. Parking is literally on the golden sands of the beach.

This was my final stop on The Causeway Coast before continuing on to The Wild Atlantic Way but the following two are on neither of the coastal trails but worth the drive from here or Derry (about an hour and 40 minutes.)

These can also be squeezed in on the West Atlantic way as they are only a short detour from Leitrim and just across the border in Northern Ireland.

Cuilcagh Boardwalk - a popular boardwalk trail in County Fermanagh right next to the border into ROI. The walk is 6.8 miles and will take around 3 - 4 hours to walk along the wooden pathway to Cuilcagh mountain. You can reach the summit of the mountain by taking the "Stairway to Heaven", a steep staircase all the way to the top. The boardwalk is suitable for anyone who loves an outdoors adventure.

Marble Arch Caves - situated five minutes away from the Cuilcagh boardwalk this exciting tour takes you down into the 11km long cave. It's the perfect thing to do on a rainy day and at a cost of only £15 it was definitely worth it, also it wasn't busy at all when I went so I actually ended up with a private tour for just me. The guides are really knowledgeable and it is interesting to see all the formations in the cave including the 10,000 year old stalactites and insect fossils. If you are lucky and the weather is on your side you will get to take the underground boat tour through the caves but alas I was not lucky - maybe next time.

The Wild Atlantic Way

I drove through Derry into County Donegal to begin my tour of the west coast. Note that you can get the Lough ferry from Magilligan point on the causeway route but it stops for the winter season.

County Donegal

Malin Head - the most northern point in mainland Ireland, you can see Scotland on a good day. There are several different trails with stunning views of the rugged coastlines & cliff edges. I recommend taking the coastal walk along to the Hell Hole where you can look down into a large crevasse between the cliffs where you can listen to the water roar and the waves crash. Beside the car park is an old communication station that was imperative in connecting America & Europe during the wars. If you coming from The Causeway Coast this is a bit of a detour but worth it if you aren't tight for time.

Cara Na Mara (Bunbeg Wreck) - a shipwreck on the beach also known as Bad Eddie. The beach was a welcomed leg stretch after the two hour drive from Malin Head. The ship was beached by a local fisherman named Eddie during the 1970s so he could carry out repairs and has remained there ever since. Bad Eddie now has the addition of some lovely fairy lights & a few iron hearts that I'm not sure were there during its maiden Voyage

Malin Beg Beach - I stopped over here to park up to spend the night. The views from the car park down to the silver strand beach are a stunning sight. When I woke up in the morning I took a stroll down the 174 steps (be prepared for this on the way back up) to stroll along the beach and I had it all to myself. It's the perfect spot for a little dip. After speaking to some locals on my trip they informed me that it is sometimes referred to as the secret beach as nobody ever seems to go so if you are looking for something a little out the way but worth the reward then this is the place.

Sliabh Liag - the highest sea cliffs in Europe. Wow - this place is seriously exceptional. You can pay to park in the little car park at the bottom of the trail and take the short walk up to the viewing point to stare in awe at the sight of the cliffs!! You can chill here and it has various refreshment vans including a fabulous coffee shop and the famous lobster rolls (be there quick as once they are done for the day they are done.) You can also hike up to the top of the cliffs which will take around 3-4 hours, there is a path but it is also advisable downloading the route. I used this route on Alltrails and don't forget you can get 30% off Alltrails+ here.

County Leitrim

Glencar Waterfall - a really short walk to a pretty epic waterfall. There is a big car park here with toilets and an ice cream van. On a good day I imagine the views over the Glencar lough would be amazing. The waterfall is only a 5 minute walk from the car and completely worth it - it was so much bigger than I expected.

County Mayo

Downpatrick Head - oh I really loved this. A short walk from the car park and you are spoilt for choice. You can go and visit the blowhole and then continue on to see Dun Briste, the incredible 350 million years old 50 metre tall sea stack. The cliffs are so high and there are no railings or anything so it can be a bit jittery as you walk near the edge. This is also where the red bull cliff diving took place a few years ago which is a completely mental thought when you see the sheer height of the cliffs.

County Galway

I drove here via the West Port & Clifden route which took a bit of extra time but the views were incredible especially on the second part of the drive when the mountain skyline starts to come into view.

Sky Road - a scenic driving loop 16km long near Connemara National Park. If you have some spare time and fancy a wee drive then I would suggest this but if not then you're not missing out on too much by giving it a miss.

Connemara National Park - 🤩 chefs kiss! I absolutely loved it here! I parked at the visitor centre hiked to the top of Diamond Hill which is the most popular hill in the park, this is a 4.4 mile loop that took just under two hours and that was stopping for loads of photos. The views of the mountains from the top are unreal. Definitely worth it.

And that is where my solo Ireland road trip comes to an end. I'd had enough of driving by this point but I'm definitely not finished exploring and I hope to return next summer where I can pick up where I left off and explore the southern half of the west coast.